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Leh
has quite a few interesting places to visit. You can start
from the captivating Leh Palace that rises from the edge of a
hill overlooking the town and stretches out towards the indigo
sky. Irrevocably reminiscent of a picture-postcard of
Lhasa’s Potala Palace, this deserted edifice has a definite
mystical quality about it.
The
Palace was built in the middle of the 16th century
by King Singe Namgyal and still belongs to the royal family
that now lives in the Stok Palace. The nine-storeyed monument
has gone to seed, so don’t visit the site expecting too
much. You might not be able to get in at all as the palace
remains locked, unless of course you ask around and find a
monk who can open it for you. The Palace has a museum with
some tangkhas (painted or embroidered scrolls) and
paintings amongst other things. The view from the monastery is
quite impressive. Roosted above the Leh Palace is the Namgyal
Tsemo Gompa (monastery). The enigmatic stark structure stands
on a steep hill looming over the town. Built in 1430 by the
Namgyal rulers, the red monastery has some frescos, Buddhist
scriptures, idols and a massive statue of the Maitreya
Buddha (future Buddha). The splendid view from the top
alone is well worth the effort. The striking Shanti Stupa is a
recent structure. A Japanese who harboured the ambition of
spreading Buddhism across the world, had it constructed in
1985 with aid from the Japanese Government. The stupa is
connected by a ‘motorable’ road and a steep flight of
stairs. Once on top, you can stop for a snack in the tea shop,
then relax and enjoy the panoramic view of the chain of
mountains and the peaceful little village of Changspa with
typical Ladakhi houses built along a gushing stream, and the
towering Namgyal Tsemo.There is a rudimentary
Sauna Spa not far from the Shanti Stupa in Changspa Village
that offers a soft drink in the sauna! The striking green and
white Leh Mosque in the Main Bazaar is also worth a visit. The
mosque is open only to men. This is also a good place to find
out about the possibility of doing voluntary work with various
organizations. If interested, inquire at the reception centre
or simply check the information board. Leh offers some
delightful walks, especially around Changspa Village. Just
take any of the cobbled lanes in the village and feel free to
carry on as you please. It is impossible to get lost in this
tiny village.
The
lanes and by-lanes curve around colourful Ladakhi houses with
brightly-painted windows overlooking little gardens blossoming
with cosmos, poppies and hollyhocks. The village is dotted
with prayer wheels where you might see some locals turning the
symbolic wheel. A network of narrow canals channel the river
water to all parts of the village, so you can never be far
from the gurgling sound of flowing water and patches of wild
arises growing around the banks of the canal. Bunches of
little children with sun burnt rosy cheeks and sparkling eyes
will greet you all around the village with the
all-encompassing greeting jule (hello, bye, thank-you
and please) that you must be all too familiar with by now. In
case you do feel a little lost or disorientated, just ask any
local and he will be happy to show you the way.
Leh
Festivals
Losar
The
Buddhists of Ladakh celebrate Losar as their new year. Before
the rule of Jamiang Namgyal (1555-1610), this day was
considered to be the first day of the Ladakhi Buddhist year,
which is based on the moon and sun similar to that of the
Hindus.
However,
Losar was advanced by two days as Jamiang Namgyal decided to
invade Skardu before the new year. Since then, Losar is
celebrated on the last two days of the l0th Bodhi month, which
coincides with December of the Christian calender.
Losar
is celebrated with traditional gaiety and fervour. The
festivities include illuminations, drinking, dancing, singing
and general merry-making. Men come out of their homes with
torches of wood which are whirled round and round. People
visit each other's homes during these celebrations, which
continue for many days.
Tampe
Chonga
The fifteenth day of the first Bodhi month is celebrated as a
festival marking Buddha's entry into the womb of his mother.
Prayers are held both at home and in the gompas.
Jipe
Chonga
The fifteenth day of the fourth Bodhi month is the day when
the Buddha is believed to have taken physical birth. The
people fast on the Jipe Chonga day. Homes and gompas are
illuminated and special prayers are conducted.
Ladakh
supports a total population of about 1,40,000 according to the
1981 Indian census figures. This region has one of the lowest
population densities in the world with a little over 2 persons
per square kilometre.
A considerable proportion of the population of Ladakh consists
of Buddhists. They are the main inhabitants of this region.The
Buddhists may further be divided into different sub
communities depending on their culture.
Monasteries
Leh
Located
on the Leh-Srinagar highway, the Lamayuru Gompa dates back to
the 10th century and is known to be the oldest
house of faith in Ladakh. The monastery is also famous for
being one of the most picturesquely-located monasteries in
Ladakh. It belongs to the Kagyupa order of Buddhism and is
believed to have been wrecked and reconstructed several times.
The monastery is home to some of the finest frescos, carpets
and tangkhas (embroidered or painted scrolls) you’ll
see in the region. The prayer ceremonies in the gompa should
not be missed.
Amongst
numerous other monasteries that dot this rugged landscape, the
Shey Gompa at a distance of 15km from Leh was the former
summer residence of the royal family of Ladakh. The monastery
has a 23m high gold-plated Shakyamuni Buddha statue, known to
be the largest one in Ladakh. The Spituk Gompa is only 8km
from Leh and overlooks the Leh airport while from the back of
the monastery one can look down on the winding Indus and a
sprawling green village topped with willows and poplars. The
monastery has some noteworthy statues of Buddha and a natural
rock formation of the Hindu goddess, Kali. Another monastery
close to Leh is the Stok Gompa built in 1814. In the year
1974, the last king of Ladakh passed away in this monastery.
The monastery faces the Stok Museum that has, amongst other
things, a collection of the royal family’s traditional
clothing and jewellery. The deserted 400 hundred year old
Basgo Gompa close to Nimmu Village houses fine frescos and a
gold-plated statue of the Maitreya Buddha. The hilltop
monastery offers a spectacular view of the surrounding
landscape. Further on, the majestic Likkir Gompa built in the
14th century is famed as the first monastery built
by Tibetan monks and is definitely worth a visit. Today, the
monastery follows the Gelukpa Order of Buddhism. The monastery
is also called Klu-khyil Gompa or the Monastery of the Spirits
of Water.
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